London Fashion Week: KTZ [Kokon to Zai] A/W ‘11

The final show slot of London Fashion Week A/W ’11 is the highest accolade that a designer could ever hope to dream for; so it was always going to be met with the obstacle of unattainably high expectations - before the show had even begun. 

 But KTZ [Kokon To Zai] need not had worried.

For it certainly delivered – by a masterpiece colourful mile and more.  The show’s finale injected much needed colour and all-round zaniness to an otherwise nice but oh-so-predictable Menswear A/W ’11 season. 

For every minimalistic cut of the likes of Paul Smith, there needs to be a KTZ to continually push the creative boundaries of the fashion industry; an industry that we have all grown to know and love – but sometimes in danger of lapsing towards the ‘stable’ and ‘commercialised’ territory.

Which is where KTZ steps in. 

The finale show was like as if someone had plugged the models into an electric socket and the subsequent explosive results were sent down the runway. I mean that In a complimentary way, of course. 

After the first initial WOW factor, it is only then that you can dissect the pieces and see the genius behind the styling. 

Chunky colour-block bangles were a recurring theme across the entire collection – taking the mantra ‘if it doesn’t jangle then it’s not a bangle’ to a whole new level of extreme. 

Harlequin influences were also subtly apparent, but with a modernised and futuristic twist. 

The balaclava was also out in abundance, perhaps playing homage to the unlikely muse of Channel 4’s ‘Phonejacker’ – but also giving an element of mystery which is how KTZ playfully interacts with its audience.

Other highlights include fur mixed with a transparent PVC coat – an allusion to this season’s Faux-real trend. 

KTZ - wearable, it isn’t. Nor does it pretend to be. But what it lacks in wearability, KTZ certainly made up for in bundles of fun and an ounce of cheek.                  

Pure London 13th - 15th Feb

It is that time of the year again, folks.  Clear out your diaries and say goodbye to all your Starbucks dates, beauty sleep and protest marches for the next foreseeable weeks, and don your glad rags instead - as February’s fashion frenzy has finally arrived in London town!  Kicking off with Pure London 2011, this is best described as the lesser-known cousin of London Fashion Week – a trade show event with a younger generation spin. My only hope for this event was to gain an unprecedented access to this season’s key trends; and I can safely say that Pure London certainly delivered – and more.  This year saw a thrilling reinvention of Pure London which promised to span across 3 days in 2 venues, showcasing 950 fashion exhibitions, 5 catwalks, 3 panel discussions, 2 marketing workshops…. and an abundant supply of free white wine. So far, so good.

Starting off with the main venue at the renowned Earls Court London, I was presented with a complimentary ‘Inspiring-Indies Breakfast’ – aptly named for a suitably trendy meal, if ever there was one. This got me thinking about a niche in the market for fashion-branded meals… (boho-brunch/denim-dinner anyone? ) But before I could conceive yet even more mindless thoughts, Olly Murs of eX-Factor fame interrupted my money-spinning moment with a live rendition and performance of his new single. This was definitely my cue to leave the room - so I headed off to the Pure Spirit Stage, which was scheduled for a ‘WGSN trend predictions’ presentation, by senior WGSN editor Francesca Muston.

WGSN is a leading online fashion trend-analysis magazine (or webzine), whose razor-sharp fashion trend predictions has lead to it being dubbed as the ‘21^st century fashion bible’ in the industry. Hence I was so curious as to what they had to say regarding wardrobe necessities for the upcoming A/W ‘11 season – giving us a head start in securing key pieces before said piece becomes nauseatingly overexposed.  I also liken trend-forecasting to the analogy of the calm before a storm; the calm being now, and the storm being that hysterical moment when you are elbowing a stranger in public to fight for that last must-have UGG boot in a shop, losing any last shreds of  dignity in the process - if you had any in the first place, that is. So to avoid that particular storm (and to preserve  dignity), take note of this precise summary of this seasons key macro trends:

1.            Faux-Real

What it says on the tin - faux is the French word for fake, so this trend is an intriguing concept which plays on the contrast between the world of fakery and the world of reality.  Francesca Muston of WGSN explains that this trend was inspired by eccentric music-stage personas such as Lady GaGa - but I can’t help but think that the recent success of the movie Inception (2010) whereby faux-reality played a prominent theme, also contributed to the emergence of this trend. Nevertheless, this faux-real trend can be translated to something as blatant as wearing faux-fur against real fur – or perhaps give it a more conceptual interpretation with conspicuously fake statement gold accessories.  (Think A-Team?)  In short, wear something fake that is real-looking or something real that is fake-looking – easily understood, right? The layers of complexities in the faux-real trend is sure to confuse the best of us; I’m actually starting to think that I’m losing a grip of reality myself… this definitely wins most pretentious trend award. 

 

2.          360 degrees

I am not talking about your maths protractor – no,  this trend is so much more than that.  Yet another trend of contrasts, 360 degrees is about combining futuristic technologies with ancient traditions – hence taking a 360 degree perspective on things. This concept is also extended to the physical garment itself whereby a 360 degree view (front, side and back) is just as important as the garment itself. Another key feature of this trend is movement – how the garment flows when being worn. WGSN reports that the Parka Cape will see a resurgence under this macro trend as the movement of garment and its offbeat volume structure sits perfectly under the 360 degrees brief. Ideal for the upcoming music festival season, note that voluminous pieces should be clinched with a belt to retain femininity. Also, not too sure how well the Parka cape will fare in a moshing festival crowd, I’m sure we’ll find out soon…

3.       Your Space

A rather narcissistic take on a fashion trend, WGSN presents to you ‘Your Space’ – this trend is all about YOU and The Self. This trend conveniently allows you to select outfits that best suits your lifestyle.  WGSN recommends retail buyers at the seminar to buy a capsule collection that is tailored towards to their target customer base lifestyles – be it corporate big-wigs or stay-at-home mothers. Finally, a trend that moulds into you rather than you having to mould into those impossibly skinny jeans… almost sounds too good to be true?  Well there really is no catch - the ‘Your Space’ trend is all about a clean, compartmentalised look that is functional for your everyday needs.  The macro-trend of ‘Your Space’ includes a sub-branch of ‘Military Minimalism’ which sees the much familiar ‘Military’ trend stripped down to its bare essentials. Think utility zips, belts, overalls, aprons, patch pockets – the cast of Dad’s army pared down.  Remember, a boxy silhouette is essential for this casual androgyny look. 

4.       Future Vagabond

The shower-dodging, hygienically-repellent amongst you are going to have an absolutely field day with this trend, believe me – according to WGSN ‘Future Vagabond’ is a key macro trend next season! A more politically-correct term would probably be along the lines of ‘The Homeless Look’  - so go for parachute jumpers, sleeping-bag coats, quilted outer-wear and patchwork capes -  this is essentially a revamp of last season’s ‘heritage’ trend. Truth to be told, I am more excited about the sleeping-bag coat hybrid concept – the idea that you can have an unplanned sleepover without the need for a change of clothes is simply genius.  However, die-hard fashionaistas need not embrace this ‘Future Vagabond’ trend to heart – there is probably a fine line between looking fashionable and looking malnourished in the gutter.

So there you have it, a concise WGSN trend report hot off the press at Pure London 2011, which should take you seamlessly into the next A/W ’11 season. Remember to spare a thought or even some change for the next homeless person you come across, as you might soon be asking them for fashion tips… how the mighty has fallen, and the weak has risen – who would have thought it?

Lucy

Lucy, second year LLB Law

Lucy defines her style mostly in terms of music. 90's indie pop music and Tracyanne Campbell (singer from Camera Obscura) provide her with plenty inspiration, but her transferring of music into her clothing does not end there: “I used to always buy a t-shirt at a gig, but more and more bands seem to be selling tote bags now which I think is great.” You can't see it in the picture but indeed, she caught my eye because of the numerous tote bags she was carrying around campus. Apart from those, her basics mostly hail from the usual Zara, H&M, a Primark here and there. And like most people, she does not shy away from a vintage twist: she recommends charity shops outside of London to “find the real gems”. Today she accessorized with a scarf from her grandfather (finally something different than “I found it in my mom's closet!”) and a coat from Marks and Spencer! She has a penchant for boys' clothing (“more than is probably normal for a girl!”), mostly baggy knitwear and oversized t-shirts, but, as she puts it, “I never wear trousers, so maybe that balances it out!” Trying too hard, which is a mistake many Londoners make according to her, is not her thing. I seem to be hearing the word “comfort” a lot these days when talking about clothing, as also Lucy emphasizes the importance of being confident in your clothes as well as them being practical. Still, she stresses the need for a certain balance: “I'm very grateful to be at a uni where people aren't draped head to toe in Jack Wills and Abercrombie and Fitch”. I think student style is all about dressing well without it being the main concern; after all, you need to be able to run to your classes when you're late and take into account the fact that the library staircase really does provide students in bean bags with an excellent view up your skirt. In this same spirit, Lucy recommends fingerless gloves as a must-have for winter. “I can't be the only person who's resorted to using my nose to answer a call on the iphone's touch screen when stuck in a pair of gloves in winter. Fingerless is the way to go.”