Not so long ago, ‘ethical fashion’ used to be a redundant phrase, reserved only for the forsaken castaway clothing belonging to your local Oxfam store. That was clearly before Estethica decided to burst into the fashion scene; revolutionising our pre-conceptions of what it means to be truly ‘ethical’ - as well as paving the way for eco-fashion to become a mainstay fix on the fashion calendar. The British Fashion Council decided to launch Estethica in 2006, as a channel to promote and celebrate fashion designers with an ethical conscience; and it has gone from strength to strength ever since.
As I arrive at the distinguished Somerset House for Estethica S/S ’11 Press Day - it commences with an informal brunch which gives me time to delve into a few of the designer collections and to unmask the genius behind the brands.
As I arrive at the distinguished Somerset House for Estethica S/S ’11 Press Day - it commences with an informal brunch which gives me time to delve into a few of the designer collections and to unmask the genius behind the brands.
Dr Noki of eponymous label NHS instantly exudes an eccentric vibe that is visibly translated onto his somewhat psychedelic collection; which can only be described as the fashion vision of an hallucinatory acid trip. Indeed, the ethical aspect to Dr Noki’s collection is not typical in the conventional sense; he utilises the concept of a ‘DIY sustainable canvas’ in which he refers to his customers as ‘NHS patients’ whereby, purchased garments can be taken back in-store for ‘aftercare services’ – for example to ‘add extra sleeves.’ As you do. Next you’ll be telling me that his store is in the style set-up of a hospital ward, which incidentally - is exactly what you would find if you visited Dr Noki’s NHS store on 123 Bethnal Green in Shoreditch. Ethical fashion clearly knows no bounds; and if this pioneering way of recycling fashion through ‘aftercare services’ is the way forward - then viva la revolution. Vogue has also latched onto Dr Noki’s alternative flair and has given him press coverage which firmly cements his place in fashion history.
I was also delighted to meet Ada Zanditon who has been gaining silent notoriety for her signature pieces, especially since the success of her first graduate collection which stirred up nothing short of a critic storm during London Fashion Week. Beyond the prehistoric dinosaur allusion to her fashion masterpieces, there is a story of searing intelligence that is as subtle as it is apparent. Speaking to Ada Zanditon, I discover that she combines her knowledge of mathematics, sciences and ecosystems to harness and infuse into her ethical collection - hence the angular and beautifully constructed nature of her garments.
Swiftly moving onto the next rail, new womenswear label PARTIMI is also one to watch - with its striking contrast between romantic resonance and its architectural approach inciting provocative emotions to the observer. PARTIMI’s designer, having originated from an ecology-based 60’s hippy sensibility background naturally gave the label its ethical grounding, and even has a previous collection donating 5% of profits to an charity for an overfishing cause. PARTIMI S/S ’11 collection is inspired by the designer grandmother’s priceless costumes belonging to the Ballet Russes - a French Ballet troupe who were active circa 1920’s and responsible for much of the French cultural movements across the fashion, music and dance spheres. Ballet is everywhere this season - you only have to look at Natalie Portman’s forthcoming ballet biopic movie ‘Black Swan’ for telling signs - so head over to the V&A galleries where the Ballet Russes costumes are currently being exhibited. If the V&A gallery fails to entice you for being too far, then come along to LSE’s Fashion Show on the 4th February where PARTIMI and various other designers from Estethica will be showcasing – a truly exciting catwalk event not to be missed.
As the humdrum of chatter dies down in the Estethica room, we are then treated to a dose of tenor singing by the renowned David Gough who is accompanied by a theatrical pianist. The final lingering note brings us abruptly to the Q&A session with panellists from the Daily Telegraph, Sunday Times, The Observer and the Estethica curator to discuss the core purpose of the press day – ethical fashion. The key buzzword that came across from the panellist discussion was the concept of ‘Fast Fashion’ in which ‘Eco-Fashion’ was the clear antithesis of the former. If ‘Fast Fashion’ was the Big Mac of the food world, ‘Eco-Fashion’ was definitely portrayed to be the fairtrade banana. It appears that increasingly, the younger generation are being instilled with the notion of ethical awareness in the fashion supply chain – from sourced materials to factory workers well-being, there’s no escaping the fashion conundrum. Coupled with the idea of a wardrobe becoming an almost ‘time-capsule’ for ‘timeless pieces’- we can begin to see how eco-fashion is going to become a permanent fixture in mainstream fashion, banishing fast-fashion into a thing of the past, forever.
Another key issue raised through the Q&A session was the concern that the inflated costs of ethical fashion being a barrier for those on a shoe-string budget. Estethica curator - Orsola de Castro, gave a readily assured answer that she ‘aspires to see the day where ethical fashion is to become democratised; when it becomes a necessity rather than a luxury of the affluent few.’ Even low budget stores such as Primark are beginning to understand the importance of eco-fashion with placards emblazoned across their flagship Oxford Street store; gently assuring us of their factory workers humane living conditions. The future of fashion may be as volatile as ever but only one thing is for certain - eco-fashion is here to stay.
