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V&A: yohji yamamoto

Glenn

Glenn

MSc in International Political Economy

With Cary Grant and Fred Astaire as his icons, Glenn tries to give a modern twist to a classic look; or is it the other way around? On the one hand, he has a penchant for classic accessories: “According to my friends, I apparently have a relatively extensive collection of bowties.” The pocket square (“Just to add a bit of whimsy on a dull Tuesday”) is definitely a quirky twist reminding me of old movie stars, as I have never ever seen Humphrey Bogart without one. But, at the same time, the overall look of his outfit is classic with modern accents here and there. Maybe this is due to the fact that he is originally from Vancouver, Canada and acquires most of his clothing from American brands such as Ralph Lauren and Brooks Brothers, as well as newer brands that sell classic apparel like Band of Outsiders, Thom Browne and Patrik Ervell. He also mentions Gitman and Wings + Horns, two smaller independent American brands. If you know any of these names, you might see a pattern here. Glenn affirms: “I am a sucker for tailoring, but can’t afford those Savile Row suits, just yet.” Upon moving to London, he decided to live near Spitalfields, which, needless to say, is a good spot for anyone who seeks to dress in an original way; he recommends checking out Albam, Folk and Present. His outfit today is composed of Ralph Lauren trousers and his favourite coat from Uniqlo (“It's just so warm...”). One last fun fact about Glenn: as he is quite small, he often inspects the children’s section for basics. “Same quality but at a lower price!”

Bright Tights

Jonathon Aston £8; River Island £12; River Island £12; Pamela Mann £10; H&M £10; Topshop £8

Feeling the mid-term melancholy? Well here is something to banish away those blues -for this Spring ‘11 will see the humble hosiery get a vibrant revamp! Gone are the days where tights serve as nothing but a functional burden for the well-behaved schoolgirls;  in fact, these daring S/S ’11 tights could not be further from this typecast. Bold, heroic and unapologetic; this new generation of tights seeping through the high street stores are more dangerous than safe and should probably come with a health & safety tag.  This season sees tights take the forefront centrepiece of your outfit,  from eclectic to electric – almost anything goes.  And it’s not just prints that are causing a stir on the tights scene – texture can be just as fun to experiment with. Transport yourself back to 90’s grunge nostalgia with pink neon fishnet tights made to shock. Alternatively, discover your inner hippie with new-age psychedelic colours - or make a statement with a pattern that resembles a rainbow smashed across your tights.  Is the sunshine making you feel a spring in your step? Well why not take it one step further and map the nature and sublime onto tights with a digital print of the flawless skyline [see inset picture]. Likewise, capture the sun for eternity by boldly displaying it on your pins.    Well if we can’t change the weather, you can’t blame us for trying to change our tights…      

Veronique

Veronique, first year MSc Management

Veronique delights in being unique, in terms of the specific pieces she wears as well as her outfits as a whole. Always picking up items to add to her collection of “souvenirs” when she travels, her wardrobe contains as international of a mix as LSE does. Her outfit today alone hails from four different countries: “Almost every piece of clothing I'm wearing is from somewhere different in the world. I love traveling! The jacket is from a designer whose studio is in Dalston, I picked it up at his sample sale. The pants are from small shop in Washington DC, the scarf is a Norweigan Brand cashmere and wool blend, the shoes are Church's and the hand bag is from a small leather shop in Istanbul.” Needless to say, that's impressive. It should also come as no surprise that Veronique's aim is to try to wear things that are one of kind. That does not mean she shuns the high street shops though; a true Urban Outfitters and COS devotee as well as an East London vintage shopper, she tries to find unusual pieces worth the much more expensive price tag that seems to come with the territory in London. But then again, London style is undeniable, she even places it above New York. It is also interesting to note that her roots (she's from Brazil) still have a distinct influence on her style philosophy: she always tries to wear colour and loves to mix a lot of different patterns and fabrics, unlike the sea of neutrals we see a lot of in London.

Hasani

Hasani, 2nd year BSc Actuarial Science

Hasani, from Barbados, embodies the true laid-back philosophy from his home country: he claims to have no particular style secrets or to have any knowledge of fashion at all for that matter. Frankly, I find it refreshing. This guy has an obvious sense of fashion, without copying from magazines or trying to recreate some style icon's look. He is uninfluenced by anything, and effortlessly manages to look amazingly put together. To mention some of the good aspects of this outfit: the right balance of colours, the accessories that give just enough of an accent and the quality of the materials he is wearing. But most of all it is the attitude he transcends of simply not trying too hard. Over-thinking an outfit is definitely a fashion faux-pas.

London Fashion Week: KTZ [Kokon to Zai] A/W ‘11

The final show slot of London Fashion Week A/W ’11 is the highest accolade that a designer could ever hope to dream for; so it was always going to be met with the obstacle of unattainably high expectations - before the show had even begun. 

 But KTZ [Kokon To Zai] need not had worried.

For it certainly delivered – by a masterpiece colourful mile and more.  The show’s finale injected much needed colour and all-round zaniness to an otherwise nice but oh-so-predictable Menswear A/W ’11 season. 

For every minimalistic cut of the likes of Paul Smith, there needs to be a KTZ to continually push the creative boundaries of the fashion industry; an industry that we have all grown to know and love – but sometimes in danger of lapsing towards the ‘stable’ and ‘commercialised’ territory.

Which is where KTZ steps in. 

The finale show was like as if someone had plugged the models into an electric socket and the subsequent explosive results were sent down the runway. I mean that In a complimentary way, of course. 

After the first initial WOW factor, it is only then that you can dissect the pieces and see the genius behind the styling. 

Chunky colour-block bangles were a recurring theme across the entire collection – taking the mantra ‘if it doesn’t jangle then it’s not a bangle’ to a whole new level of extreme. 

Harlequin influences were also subtly apparent, but with a modernised and futuristic twist. 

The balaclava was also out in abundance, perhaps playing homage to the unlikely muse of Channel 4’s ‘Phonejacker’ – but also giving an element of mystery which is how KTZ playfully interacts with its audience.

Other highlights include fur mixed with a transparent PVC coat – an allusion to this season’s Faux-real trend. 

KTZ - wearable, it isn’t. Nor does it pretend to be. But what it lacks in wearability, KTZ certainly made up for in bundles of fun and an ounce of cheek.                  

Pure London 13th - 15th Feb

It is that time of the year again, folks.  Clear out your diaries and say goodbye to all your Starbucks dates, beauty sleep and protest marches for the next foreseeable weeks, and don your glad rags instead - as February’s fashion frenzy has finally arrived in London town!  Kicking off with Pure London 2011, this is best described as the lesser-known cousin of London Fashion Week – a trade show event with a younger generation spin. My only hope for this event was to gain an unprecedented access to this season’s key trends; and I can safely say that Pure London certainly delivered – and more.  This year saw a thrilling reinvention of Pure London which promised to span across 3 days in 2 venues, showcasing 950 fashion exhibitions, 5 catwalks, 3 panel discussions, 2 marketing workshops…. and an abundant supply of free white wine. So far, so good.

Starting off with the main venue at the renowned Earls Court London, I was presented with a complimentary ‘Inspiring-Indies Breakfast’ – aptly named for a suitably trendy meal, if ever there was one. This got me thinking about a niche in the market for fashion-branded meals… (boho-brunch/denim-dinner anyone? ) But before I could conceive yet even more mindless thoughts, Olly Murs of eX-Factor fame interrupted my money-spinning moment with a live rendition and performance of his new single. This was definitely my cue to leave the room - so I headed off to the Pure Spirit Stage, which was scheduled for a ‘WGSN trend predictions’ presentation, by senior WGSN editor Francesca Muston.

WGSN is a leading online fashion trend-analysis magazine (or webzine), whose razor-sharp fashion trend predictions has lead to it being dubbed as the ‘21^st century fashion bible’ in the industry. Hence I was so curious as to what they had to say regarding wardrobe necessities for the upcoming A/W ‘11 season – giving us a head start in securing key pieces before said piece becomes nauseatingly overexposed.  I also liken trend-forecasting to the analogy of the calm before a storm; the calm being now, and the storm being that hysterical moment when you are elbowing a stranger in public to fight for that last must-have UGG boot in a shop, losing any last shreds of  dignity in the process - if you had any in the first place, that is. So to avoid that particular storm (and to preserve  dignity), take note of this precise summary of this seasons key macro trends:

1.            Faux-Real

What it says on the tin - faux is the French word for fake, so this trend is an intriguing concept which plays on the contrast between the world of fakery and the world of reality.  Francesca Muston of WGSN explains that this trend was inspired by eccentric music-stage personas such as Lady GaGa - but I can’t help but think that the recent success of the movie Inception (2010) whereby faux-reality played a prominent theme, also contributed to the emergence of this trend. Nevertheless, this faux-real trend can be translated to something as blatant as wearing faux-fur against real fur – or perhaps give it a more conceptual interpretation with conspicuously fake statement gold accessories.  (Think A-Team?)  In short, wear something fake that is real-looking or something real that is fake-looking – easily understood, right? The layers of complexities in the faux-real trend is sure to confuse the best of us; I’m actually starting to think that I’m losing a grip of reality myself… this definitely wins most pretentious trend award. 

 

2.          360 degrees

I am not talking about your maths protractor – no,  this trend is so much more than that.  Yet another trend of contrasts, 360 degrees is about combining futuristic technologies with ancient traditions – hence taking a 360 degree perspective on things. This concept is also extended to the physical garment itself whereby a 360 degree view (front, side and back) is just as important as the garment itself. Another key feature of this trend is movement – how the garment flows when being worn. WGSN reports that the Parka Cape will see a resurgence under this macro trend as the movement of garment and its offbeat volume structure sits perfectly under the 360 degrees brief. Ideal for the upcoming music festival season, note that voluminous pieces should be clinched with a belt to retain femininity. Also, not too sure how well the Parka cape will fare in a moshing festival crowd, I’m sure we’ll find out soon…

3.       Your Space

A rather narcissistic take on a fashion trend, WGSN presents to you ‘Your Space’ – this trend is all about YOU and The Self. This trend conveniently allows you to select outfits that best suits your lifestyle.  WGSN recommends retail buyers at the seminar to buy a capsule collection that is tailored towards to their target customer base lifestyles – be it corporate big-wigs or stay-at-home mothers. Finally, a trend that moulds into you rather than you having to mould into those impossibly skinny jeans… almost sounds too good to be true?  Well there really is no catch - the ‘Your Space’ trend is all about a clean, compartmentalised look that is functional for your everyday needs.  The macro-trend of ‘Your Space’ includes a sub-branch of ‘Military Minimalism’ which sees the much familiar ‘Military’ trend stripped down to its bare essentials. Think utility zips, belts, overalls, aprons, patch pockets – the cast of Dad’s army pared down.  Remember, a boxy silhouette is essential for this casual androgyny look. 

4.       Future Vagabond

The shower-dodging, hygienically-repellent amongst you are going to have an absolutely field day with this trend, believe me – according to WGSN ‘Future Vagabond’ is a key macro trend next season! A more politically-correct term would probably be along the lines of ‘The Homeless Look’  - so go for parachute jumpers, sleeping-bag coats, quilted outer-wear and patchwork capes -  this is essentially a revamp of last season’s ‘heritage’ trend. Truth to be told, I am more excited about the sleeping-bag coat hybrid concept – the idea that you can have an unplanned sleepover without the need for a change of clothes is simply genius.  However, die-hard fashionaistas need not embrace this ‘Future Vagabond’ trend to heart – there is probably a fine line between looking fashionable and looking malnourished in the gutter.

So there you have it, a concise WGSN trend report hot off the press at Pure London 2011, which should take you seamlessly into the next A/W ’11 season. Remember to spare a thought or even some change for the next homeless person you come across, as you might soon be asking them for fashion tips… how the mighty has fallen, and the weak has risen – who would have thought it?

Lucy

Lucy, second year LLB Law

Lucy defines her style mostly in terms of music. 90's indie pop music and Tracyanne Campbell (singer from Camera Obscura) provide her with plenty inspiration, but her transferring of music into her clothing does not end there: “I used to always buy a t-shirt at a gig, but more and more bands seem to be selling tote bags now which I think is great.” You can't see it in the picture but indeed, she caught my eye because of the numerous tote bags she was carrying around campus. Apart from those, her basics mostly hail from the usual Zara, H&M, a Primark here and there. And like most people, she does not shy away from a vintage twist: she recommends charity shops outside of London to “find the real gems”. Today she accessorized with a scarf from her grandfather (finally something different than “I found it in my mom's closet!”) and a coat from Marks and Spencer! She has a penchant for boys' clothing (“more than is probably normal for a girl!”), mostly baggy knitwear and oversized t-shirts, but, as she puts it, “I never wear trousers, so maybe that balances it out!” Trying too hard, which is a mistake many Londoners make according to her, is not her thing. I seem to be hearing the word “comfort” a lot these days when talking about clothing, as also Lucy emphasizes the importance of being confident in your clothes as well as them being practical. Still, she stresses the need for a certain balance: “I'm very grateful to be at a uni where people aren't draped head to toe in Jack Wills and Abercrombie and Fitch”. I think student style is all about dressing well without it being the main concern; after all, you need to be able to run to your classes when you're late and take into account the fact that the library staircase really does provide students in bean bags with an excellent view up your skirt. In this same spirit, Lucy recommends fingerless gloves as a must-have for winter. “I can't be the only person who's resorted to using my nose to answer a call on the iphone's touch screen when stuck in a pair of gloves in winter. Fingerless is the way to go.”

Sophie

Sophie, first year Politics & Philosophy

The first thing you wonder about when you see this outfit: WHERE DID SHE GET THE HAT? Sorry people, she found this super cosy rabbit fur hat from a vintage shop in Le Marais in Paris, the area where fur appears in abundance around this time of year in every little shop. If you're looking for anything fur, you could definitely get some nice bargains there. Back in London, Sophie can often be seen in black in wintertime; classic outfits with some alternative touches “like a shirt and pencil skirt with some really different boots” are what she usually goes for. According to her, the quintessential winter look this year should certainly include a cape or knee-high leather boots. She must be happy with this season having more than a couple of very classic key items, as she adores the styles in movies from anywhere between the 20's and 60's, and tries to find similar pieces in the fashion jungle that is high street. Though at this stage in her life she mostly acquires these styles at Zara, she dreams of bigger things: “If I could afford it, I would love to own a couple of YSL pieces someday.” Don't we all...

Peter

Peter, first year Law

Clean, comfortable and colour coordinated. “First impressions are everything. From someone's style you can see how someone wants to portray himself. It's like talking to someone before you talk to them.” Peter transcends his love for neatness in an understated style: good basics, from brands such as Ben Sherman, Muji and Uniqlo, and most of all no fuss. “For me, when I go to school, clothing needs to be practical and clean. I don't see the point of trying too hard and being uncomfortable in what I'm wearing.” Yet his style is something else, and not just in comparison to the way people dress in his hometown. “Hong Kong is quite international, you do see some influences of eccentric Japanese street style but mostly it's focused on business and the apparel that that brings along.” He also noticed that “young people's clothing” in London (he mentions tweed blazers and colourful trousers) is hardly ever seen in Hong Kong; there is a distinct difference between the sometimes daring European style and the more demure dress common back home. Though Peter also rarely goes for excessively colourful clothing, he seems to have a good feel for combining colours and cuts, matching dark browns, blues and greens, with the key items being button-down shirts and cardigans that can be paired in endless combinations. On anyone else it could be dull, but on Peter it looks playful. Which is probably why he doesn't like to emulate from fashion blogs; the photographs show people that often wear “pretty out there stuff”, which just does not suit everyone. The same goes for Peter: he has very much his own style, for a big part thanks to his sparkling personality!

Bart

Bart, Postgraduate in Politics and French

 Once in a blue moon, someone - or something comes along to brighten up your otherwise Monday monotony. This week - that someone was Bart; a Postgraduate hailing from Paris, who with every step leaves behind an enchanting trail of purple brogue imprints – the kind of purple that you only ever get to see in an intoxicating Burton movie. Surely this is LSE’s answer to Beetlejuice meets Frenchman (if ever there was one)? His rock chic man bag is somewhat at odds with his palette of beige and neutrals; yet somehow this oxymoron of an outfit works. With this eccentric get-up, Bart would surely not look out of place in a line-up of dazzling TV personalities; yet you would be sorely mistaken to believe that he exudes showmanship as he insists that ‘you don’t have to be in show business to dress for flair!’ Alternatively, the inverse of that saying also rings true  – you don’t have to dress for flair if you are in show business! Take note, Brucie. Not one to be confined to gender stereotypes, Bart is also one of the rare few guys that I have seen sporting an infinity scarf; which adds a touch of femininity to the overall androgynous look. Upon closer inspection of his jacket, I presume that it is made from linen - a material that usually creases like no other, yet somehow he has managed to do the undoable and keep it fold-free! He has conquered fashion’s biggest enemy with this crease-free linen jacket; but my guess is that he is probably the type of guy who is an idol of ironing. Meanwhile, I will still be on my holy grail towards unlocking fashion other secrets on campus for next week….